Lancia Tech

A simple respray .... ?

Written by Felix Furtak. Posted in Lancia Tech

Way too many years have passed since we received this white Fulvia s2 coupe. The car was purchased in Gauteng and actually made it all the way to Cape town on its own steam. Then it was parked for many years in a moist garage in Rondebosch, with very detrimental effects. Brown color was showing through the white paint. Hence the car had to be resprayed again. We did suggest to first look at the mechanical, as it is uncomfortable to do mechanical repairs on a newly sprayed vehicle. This is is how the story started.

 In the following we will give some photographic highlights of what we found. Virtually everything we opened was broken one way or another and needed attention. Most of the damage however did not come form the ages but was man made. I will start with the current issue:


The reason why the new brake system was never fitted it simply because it sits on top of the steering box. I never trusted the steering, and I know there removing the steering box under the brake master cylinder is s pain. So The is weekend Litha and me bite the bullet and remove the complete steering system from left to right. What we found is that the steering box was filled with water instead of oil, with the result that half of the bearings were badly rusted and have to be replaced. Unattended this steering would have failed completely in due course

The idler could be rebuild with the parts at hand:

The track rods were puzzling as they were all home made. Only later it deemed on me that the car did have a heavy accident on the from sub frame. So obviously the steering was badly bend, and they made up new arms instead of fitting the correct replacement units. This has finally all been done noe

We are now waiting for the replacement parts for the steering box


The other major issue is the bush in the gear shift shaft that had all but vanished completely. I have no Idea how the gear change even worked. I was very reluctant to remove the gearbox or lower the drive train. Our son Litha, who is only staring with Lancia mechanics has actually managed to get the part out despite a very tight fit, and dome removal of a sub frame brace. I how the new part will go in the same way

As you can see on the other side the reverse gear lock was missing 

Let us continue with the rear axle. As you know Lancia employed propitiatory nuts that were supposed to be opened with propitiatory tools. Now this one has been converted 

In side everything was rebuild 

Sadly this was not the end of the story: The handbrake lever was badly manhandled. On only was the actual lever bend, the mounting plate was broken and had to be welded. 

Disaster can strike in the most unlikely places: The pedals are a part of the car that never receives any attention, and what for ? But what happening here ? The grease in the medal shafts had mutated int he last fifty years from grease to glue, and the pedals were so sticky, it was not acceptable. A sticky brake pedal can even be dangerous, as it keeps pressure on the mastercylinder and will block the opening to the reservoir. I first considered to fix this in situ, but eventually i listened to my wife and ripped the whole thing out and overhauled the complete unit: 

On the above picture we can see that the bolts for the steering column are missing, they are sitting on a support bracket to enable assembly: all gone. I had to make new pieces for later. 

The result is convincing, smooth mechanical function in Lancia style. 

Some time ago we dod the complete heaterbox and the controls. While often considered an unncesssary accessory, the heating system is actually a legal requiremnt to operate the wwindscreen demister 

The engine had only a minor inspection, considering the car drove down from Gauteng it could no have been too bad, never mind the surprise I got to find the lappie under the water pump. How it did NOT get caught in the chain escapes me. 

>Not that the cooling system looked any better 

While the top of the car is now coming together, and it starts to look like a Fulvia, I am painfully aware that more disaster linger in the deep.... like the very badly bend control arm. 

One of the easy things: The clock only needed a service and is now happily ticking away....

A major area of concern were the rear light. While the lenses were ok, the plastic base plates had completely disintegrated. To build those things up is an absolute pain and not even very successful. By sheer coincidence we got in a set of lights that are "as new" so they are fitted now. 


A stupid issue that wasted an hour of my life: when trying to fit the center console I noticed that from the 3 captive nuts on the top rail only one was present. To find the 2 missing ones I had to remove the WHOLE dash section which is a rather elaborate job. That is how you learn to hate the previous mechanic. 

 

>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ready for spray........ nor not ?

Written by Felix Furtak. Posted in Lancia Tech

We got this Fulvia S1 car form the steel worker, who did some major repairs to the body. Now the car is supposed to go the the spray painter to be covered in Lancia blu. I am supposed to do the final checkup. The client has a simple requirement: he is happy if I am happy. Now lets have a look what is missing for my happiness:

 

The floor looks all very happy, neat strong and clean.. but stop... where will the throttle pedal go to ? Unlike the Beetle or the Porsche it is not hanging from the top, but mounted on the floor.

looking around the will also does not look particularly perpendicular

Very reluctantly I apply the grinder to the new floor. It turns out that the floor has got 3, not only 2 layers of metal, the rust is already trapped in between.

Now we weld the layers together again .

Note the square holes in the floor that will accommodate the captive nuts used to hold the pedal.

 

Now finally we can fit the throttle pedal in the appropriate manner:

 

 


It was bad enough the the whole filler cage came loose from the wing. After I re-welded it properly I realized why this was premature. If you look at the center of the image you see a shine put, that is where tank filler drain is supposed to be, yeas a hoe, but look, there si no hole at all

Everything was properly brazed up, the brazer was clearly in the zone and closed any hole he could find. Before long we suddenly had way to much hole :(</>

I was lazy to make a panel, we I jsut used a round washer to find the drain pipe.

Not easy ot weld it all iin the the brazing the welding don't really gel :(

One of my main worries was the dent in the rear panel. Did the car some some accident ? but how was the panel dented like that. it did not make sense. Now we take the tape measure and what do we find ?

 

As you can see, one side is 26mm high, the other 27mm high. At some point the body was squeezed down. There we are: we just have to reverse the process:

and all is well again

But now I can to deal with he shape of the llip of the bootlid which also had taken a knock. A few cuts wiht the grinder will allow to reshapoe this again.

>Now we fit all the beadings to make sure it all fits together fine. then it all has to be re-welded


An often overlooked part of the car are the hinges, of which the car has got 8. Non of them has been serviced int he last 60 years, so they do get rusty, especially the boot hinge. But you will not notice it, and you have a large leaver. The force will dissipate into the boot frame, which will gradually weaken and finally crack, letting the water in which will speed up further cracking. Eventually the whole thing comes off as it has happened with this car. Now all 8 hinges have been disassembled, cleaned and greased. The offending boot-hinge had to be opened with an air chisel, a real butchers toy.


Now the fitting holding the right wiper assembly was rusted away. it was solidly put back into place, but sadly way too low 

We bought a fancy metal hole-saw in the right diameter to cut the piece out again. The tube did get damaged and needed repair 

Then we got all the bits together and but the whole assembly together. Now all fits well, the tube is in the right place, but stop...... we cant weld it on as it is covered by the bezel.  

Here it needed a plan. We had to sacrifice a bezel, and cut in 2 windows though which the welding could be done. 

And voila, it is all back together and is guaranteed to fit in the final assembly 


The battery tray was rebuild very solidly, but with a solid floor, which did not look nice. To make the cutouts with the jigsaw was however a bit tricky.


The bonnet is from aluminum, we dont have the means to weld that. The repair for the front section was problematic as it was not possible to fit the cage nut. To go in with the dremmel was not pretty,l but he only way to do it. 


Next, the left door, yes we know, the door is always the worst in terms of fitting. The door line was not acceptable, so out comes the door. if we look with the straight edge, the bottom of the door is not straight. For the sake of sanity, I had to employ a cowboy repair. All in all the door had to be removed twice and refitted, which takes forever every time, but in the wend the door fitted well and I am happy.


Fulvia front Leaf Spring

Written by heinrich spreeth. Posted in Lancia Tech

Fulvia Leaf Spring.

 

Leaf springs on a Fulvia has liners in between leaves and also lubrication.

I was changing the Rubber bumper on the end anyway and So I decided to clean out Spring replace liners and regrease.

 

 

I don’t have any sagging issues otherwise. This is what my spring measured as with no load:

 

 

I do not know what material was used for liners before, I measured 0.7mm in thickness. I opted to get a sheet of PTFE at 1mm thickness.

PTFE cuts very easily using a Sharp knife and straight edge . Note The old black liner in photo. I could only find White PTFE in stock. Black would be preferable.

 

 

Remember to cut out hole where inner bolt and Spacer is mounted.

 

 

I used thicker NGLI 3 grease for in between metal and plastic.

 

 

The TOP inner NUT has to have a spacer so that second leaf can slide on bottom one.

 

 

Fulvia wheel bearings

Written by heinrich spreeth. Posted in Lancia Tech

 

a Fulvia’s wheel bearings are way oversized and they will last a very long time. The one thing that does NOT last as long is the lubrication on the inside. They are very expensive and tricky to source however.

SKF 633032A/ FAG 510917B. Dimensions are: 96 OD, 45 ID X 34.

After disassembling my front ones, I saw very little very hard grease on the inside.

I washed this out by submerging these bearings in very clean standard Solvent based engine cleaner overnight and wiping out everything afterwards with clean paper roll:

Bearing-dissasembled  spanjaard

I was not able to remove the seals as I felt it was too much risk of damage.

 

Even though my bearings where quiet many of the balls had small lines on them which I could not feel with my nail:

 

balls

 

I opted for new ½ inch (12.7mm) balls. Each bearing needs 26. These can be found cheap at any bearing supplier.

bearing-greased

Freezer

bearing-pressed

 

 

 

Fulvia steering box

Written by heinrich spreeth. Posted in Lancia Tech

My Fulvia Steering box has been leaking for a very long time. It was time to address it.

 

I decided to disassemble ad clean up parts.

 

partssmall.jpg

 

Parts needed for basic rebuild:

1 x Top Needle bearing  DL3020( full compliment) 30(inner)x38(outer)x20(width)

2 x shaft needle bearings. B 1816 ( full compliment) 28.57 x 34.94 x 25.4mm

1 x Bottom seal 28.58mm x 39.69mm x 6.35mm

1 x side seal   19 x 30 x 7mm

2 x worm shaft bearings , I did not replace as mine was good.

Notes:

1: Take care of shims for worm shaft!! These need to go back exactly. I just wiped them down with solvent as they are steel.

 

2: there are two longer bolts and two shorter bolts. The shorter bolts go in the holes closest to the steering worm gear shaft. These holes go directly into the bearings of this shaft. You can oil them directly with fresh oil by simply removing these bolts. DO NOT bolt down the long bolts into these two holes as they could bottom out and damage bearing.

The Two longer bolts also holes the bracket (not shown in photos) that bolts to the frame where front leaf spring sits.

half-filled-small.jpg

 

 

full-small.jpg

I decided to NOT use SAE 90 gearbox oil since this is such a low speed device  and rather go for NGLI 00 grease with extreme pressure additives which would not leak past seals so easily. Taking care to coat all bearings manually during assembly.

 

 

Video of gearbox when I just filled it: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/z9b1ORe0qzQ

closedsmall.png

 

 

Latest Forum Topics

  • No posts to display.